replacing kitchen floor without removing cabinets

Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

I imagine the desiccated compound has broken into smaller granules and settled, therefore causing less of the crunch I got upon first perambulation on it. I was aiming for a “peanut butter” consistency, but by the time I got it on the floor it was likely too arid. Dont want to raise floor that much compared to hallway. The next day I got a crunchy sound when walking on parts of the backer board. You could glue the plywood down using construction adhesive, then screw or nail it; or just screw or nail it. Great info here, thanks! In prep for tile work in my insignificant 4×5 bathroom, I lately put down backer plank over a new layer of plywood subfloor. Our 1978 single wide already had new electrical, new platform, unaccustomed roof, and new plumbing and we are still working on it 5 years after buying it (still necessarily the bathroom and the kitchen updated). To me, it’s weighing the cost difference of the repair method. If you are doing the work yourself you can protect a lot of stamps but if you will have to hire it out it could get very extravagant, very quickly. You can rent a concrete sub, much like a floor polisher, to grind away the excessive floor leveling compound. We intended on laying 1/2″ cement board over the subfloor anterior to installation all of the tile, but were told by the vast tile guy for the builder of our home that we don’t need to install the cement address in the kitchen. Most edifice codes call for a 11/8″ thick subfloor embrace the backer board. Good fortune with your project!
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

Hi Dennis, Glad to hear that our place has been a help. Black shape could be a problem and the electrical system may necessity to be updated to a modern breaker box and commonplace wires and the waterworks will likely need to be upgraded if the original pipes used were recalled (some of the grey water pipes). If it doesn’t cause your floor to get too high, I would add a second layer of 1/2″ plywood, topped by either backer board or a membrane like Ditra. Your best bet would be to take the subfloor up, then put plywood down topped by cement backerboard. That way the dishwasher will glide in and out, the cabinets will be the right height, and you can easily replace the flooring without having to cut it. Apply a layer of tile adhesive over the back of the tile with a trowel and set it in place on the possession. I already orderly the lime board and am inclined to stick with it. I used to Saw all cabinets in after floors, but not anymore. Good luck with your contrive!

Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

We are getting expert to install ceramic tile where we previously had linoleum. If you can please tell me what is the best method used in removing the damamged tile? Thanks, Kathy
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

Hi, Just gutted bathroom and took two closets out to make 50’s bathroom more of a ordinary size. Spread thinset tile adhesive over the hinge slice of the floor with a trowel. Plumber temper put down another 1/2in plywood, then backerboard then tile. wondered if backerboard is OK to put over original subfloor? Thanks, great site. 17, 2009, response, you’ll find a link to a website that has more detailed info on subfoor thickness. Place tile spacers at the corners of the tile. Also, solicit if they have the dustless capabilities.
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

Hi Reza, My preference would be to put plywood under the cabinets that’s the same thickness as the laminose, install the cabinets, then floor up to it. The thinset is hardened now for four days. When I troweled it on the furious it would at times not even stick, but just glide over without “damping” the board. “The process doesn’t require removal of the appliances, so the kitchen endure functional while the work is being done.”
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

Hi Pat, I don’t recommend putting cement backerboard directly over a solid wood subfloor. Fact is that even when the cabinets and floor are complete, you still have the plumber and electrician in there scratching everything up anyway so the floor could get damaged by someone at some characteristic anyway. Based on what you’ve described, I can assure you that you are looking at a LOT of work and a share of expensive materials. We’re half done now and have now seen a religious sized chip on one of the plate. When we remote the linoleum, we found that there is wood subfloor under the majority of the floor that is in really religious condition. Personally, I wouldn’t worry with the adhesive. Make necessity cuts to the tile with a water saying. I believe I didn’t mix in enough water in the adhesive cement mix. It very well may be more affordable and less hassle for you to spend your stamps on a harbor that has been at least incompletely updated. With the linoleum, they had an extra gate where the concrete ansver the wood. You’ll need to betroth that all the leaks are repaired (so, maybe a new roof indispensably to be first on the list) before you repair or replace anything and with soft spots on the hoagie-platform you will handsome need to replace some of the studs too. Or you could tear out the existing subfloor and put down one bed of 5/8″ plywood (topped by backer or membrane) instead. The possession guy could damage parts of the cabinet (and likely will) if he has to floor after.
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

“Refacing is an ideal option for many people because of its convenience,” says Cheryl. Planning a remodel and actually doing it are two fully different things and it was a hard exercise for me to learn but I definitely learned it! Best of chance! Reply
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Replacing Kitchen Floor Without Removing Cabinets

We’re preparation to install heady in our kitchen and bathrooms. If that’s too much trouble, or your subfloor go under the walls, you could put a footing of plywood followed by cement backerboard over it, if the solid wood subfloor is flat and stable without any cupping or warping. Advice?

Hi Barry. Will we have to keep that with the draintile, or can we just continue the tile pattern there? I am worried that the wood will enlarge and contract at a separate charge than the concrete.
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Hello, We are intalling ceramic tile inour kitchen over durock. You want to be sure you don’t spend more than the home could ever be worth and you are being very poignant by asking the tough questions. However, at the edge of the galley, where it ansver our dejune room, there is a concrete step that is level with the existing wood subfloor (The breakfast room was an adjunct, so the step used to be the step to share the tribe. Now 8×7, has tongue and groove subfloor, cut out old decay area, repay with 3/4 in plywood. Since backer board adds little in the interval of strength to the floor, having thick enough plywood is important.  The occasional paint drip on pre-finished wood flooring, while no fun, can be peeled off with a fingernail.
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Comment from contributor B: I have been at this for 20 plus years now. Mark
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One off-shoot of this question is whether one should paint the home interior before installing flooring or the other way around. Now that I’ve walked on the “crunchy” spots quite a bit, they have diminished much. Let the adhesive dry for 24 hours.
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Shawn…wow, tough call there. Continue to disperse tile stick on the subfloor and back of the tile, set in place next to the previous tile, and position tile spacers until tile covers the entire possession. sistered beam. In my experience, when you start working on a home you will always find more things wrong with it than you sketch (especially after removal the floor or paneling after a leak). I divine my correspond would in fact depend on upright how much embroidery is needed. Otherwise, there is another option. That means a minimum of 5/8″ plywood topped by 1/2″ backer board. The kitchen is 20×22, and we’re going with 16×16 pantile. How much were the noise? How thick is too thick? See if the coil manufacturer can verify if they will be affective or not with the density you have. I haven’t valued them, but it’s worth countenance into. The laminate out there now will be replaced in 5 years but other than that the floor should go in first for sure. If you look back at my Sept. I put sticky mortar cement under the cohere backer board then screwed the board down. Good luck with your project!
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Crystal Adkins February 11, 2016 Hi Christine, Without glance at it I can’t really give you much of a suggestion. Apparently, our builder instate 1/2″ plywood over the subfloor in all rooms except in the baths and says it does just as good a job of holding up as cement pasteboard.

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